With fear and a bit of worry, I kicked off on a beautiful Swamp day. I went in with this simple motto in mind: be methodical, be thorough, be sure.
I decided to copy a recipe posted on the RealBeer forum, touted as an Epic Pale Ale clone. As I say here, Epic Pale Ale was the beer that got me into "the good stuff" so brewing a clone of it seemed as fitting a brew as I could think of. I've just substituted NZ Cascade for US Cascade to make things easier.
I had already boiled the water two days ago and let it sit open to get all the chlorine out of it, so it was just a case of getting it up to temperature. However, I hit a snag - while I headed up my mash tun with some hot water already, it clearly wasn't enough. So the temperature dropped to well below my target for mashing in.
There was a point where I thought about just dumping in the grain and rolling with it, mainly because I was trying to figure out how to get about 15L of water back into my HLT at the top of my shed. But that voice in my head came on again: be methodical, be thorough, be sure. So I spent a good 20 minutes lugging crap around my shed to get back, essentially, to Square One. Taking in the time to heat up water again, it put another 50 minutes into my brew day - I could live with that.
So, I finally mashed in - this time pretty much hitting my target temperature - and waited.
And waited.
And waited.
And waited.
How's that for some insulation on my mash tun |
Throughout the day, I quickly learned that brewing is really about
Pots be great for recirculation. |
It also ended up very murky going into the fermenter. After some post-brew Tweeting, Kieran let me know I should have added some calcium chloride to my water to help with clarity. Something to remember for next time.
Here's the recipe I ended up using and times of my brew day:
4.7kg Golden Promise
.41kg pale crystal
50g NZ Cascade @ 60 min
50g NZ Cascade @ 10 min
50g NZ Cascade @ 1 min
Dry hop with 100g NZ Cascade after krausen calms down
US-05 yeast
The total hop bill (incl. dry hopping). Omnomnom... I hope! |
8am - HLT on. 45L of water @ 30C
9.35am - screw up strike water
10.25am - Mash in. Mash start temp = 67C
11.58am - begin recirculating. Mash temp = 65C
12.30pm - sparge
1.10pm - start 90min boil
2.44pm - flame out, chiller on
3pm - turn off chiller, wort = 20C
4.05pm - run into fermenter
4.15pm - pitch yeast into 14L of wort. Temp = about 18C
24hrs into fermentation - bubbling in airlock once ever 8 seconds. Temp = about 16C
48hrs into fermentation - bubble every 2 seconds. Temp = about 20C
Keeping my temperature level is going to be the hardest part from here on out. I've just scored a fridge from a mate, so I'm going to convert that into a fermentation chamber sometime soon.
But ultimately, I think I'm happy with how things are going so far. And as a way to both pat myself on the back and keep the ego in check, here's what I know I did well and what I'll need to improve on next time.
Chur:
- Recirculation: I know this is important to try get crystal-clear beer. When I did the brew with Chris and Stu, we had a pump to make life easier. At home, it was a two-pot collect-and-pour job. It took longer than I expected, but I knew I had to get it right to get the beer clear. And I did have a damn nice looking wort afterwards.
- Clearing and sterilising: Making sure everything was clean was a priority. I made sure to scrub the day before, then wipe on the day, then sterilise everything twice. I was using a no-rise formula, so I didn't worry about using too much. I reckon things were damn clean, so it should help the beer come out nice.
- No shortcuts: As I said before, I had a disaster at the beginning. For a few seconds I thought about dumping the grains on the too-cold water, but quickly got that out of my mind. I presume shortcuts in brewing usually lead to crap beer, so I took the time to lug things around a wait. I'm sure the brew should work out better for it.
Unchur:
Fermenter chilling on a bed of heat pad, upside-down baking tray (to let the cable out) and carpet, wrapped in a sheet for extra snuggles. |
- Air: I probably didn't aerate the wort enough when I transferred it from the kettle to the fermenter. I used a hose to transfer it, but probably didn't hold the hose high enough to let it get enough air in. Next time, I'll be sure to use a smaller piece of hose to make sure the wort can splash enough on it's way to aerate properly.
- Expectations: I expected to be making crystal-clear, beautiful beer from the get-go, with no issues during brewing. I now know this is stupid, and I'll have to be patient while learning. I'm only learning and will need time to get good at doing this. But when I get good, I will know all those mistakes I made and lessons I learned will have been worth it.
So, there it is. First batch on the way. Is there anything I need to watch out for? Is there anything you would do differently to this recipe? Any brew tips I should know for next time? How can I not lose so much wort during the boil?
Hit me with your advice, because I'm a dry sponge and ready to soak it all up!
Hey Jono - few quick thoughts - Whilst there is nothing wrong with Irish Moss I have had much more consistent sucess with Koppafloc just need to be accurate with the quantitys.
ReplyDeleteSounds like you had quite a high boil off rate I normally loose about 10-15% with a nice rolling boil - maybe reduce the boil a little?
You can reduce the losses to trub by using appropriate quantitys of kettle floculant that works for you , adding a filter to the kettle pickup or using Joes Wort Recovery Protocol - http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profiles/blogs/the-wort-recovery-protocol
Chur
Chris
By reduce boil rate do you mean boil for a shorter time? Because I had it pretty chilled out the entire 90 minutes - rolling, but not bubbling up to the top - and still lost heaps. Is it even worth boiling with the lid on for a while?
DeleteSounds like you had the rolling thing down packed - 60 min boil is normally enough for pale base malts - 90 min is more for Lager or Pils base malts to ensure the DMS or DMS precursors are driven off.
DeleteReducing the boil by the 30 min would def make a difference to boil of rates.
I wouldnt recommend completely covering the kettle during the boil due to DMS issues maybe partly covering would help reduce losses.
Did you end up with some brew software?
Cool, good to know.
DeleteI ended up getting the "iBrewMaster" iPad app (was on special for a day at $2) - http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ibrewmaster/id315820829?mt=8
Seems to work really well.
ibrewmaster looks good love the sound of the timer functions esp hop additions!I think beersmith (which I use) could really use somthing like that.
ReplyDelete